The small white bird that moves with cows

Yesterday, Thursday May 29^th, was super productive. We started out by meeting with the Persons with Disabilities group. The mothers were lead in a discussion of goal-setting, while we played with the children. I left a few moments early so that I could be on time to the first business training meeting. We are teaching a group of local businessmen basic business skills and concepts. Their businesses range from hardware, wholesale, carpentry, retail, ect. Jeff and I taught about analyzing you business and creating a business plan. This following week we will be visiting the individual businesses and advising the owners as they create their business plans and set goals.

Following that meeting, Jeff, Trent, Tori, and I went to the market. Trent and I bought fruit and came back to the house to make a smoothie. Our smoothie was amazing. We then went to a neighborhood called Nmango where we taught Janet’s women’s group how to build an Adobe Stove. Those women are awesome. Each of the women brought a bucket of clay to contribute. The type of social capital that exists here is really inspiring. 20 plus neighbors volunteered to help build a stove for the nearby school. All of them were actively engaged in the construction. The stove will not only help to provide the school children with lunch. Adobe stoves conserve firewood, which is in short supply here. In addition, they channel smoke away from the lungs of the women who cook the meals, and the small children who play nearby. Acute repertory infection is one of the main causes of preventable death for young children in the developing world. Our hope is that as we build stoves with community members they will learn to make them, and be able to replicate them all over Lugazi even after we leave.

We had a great time with the women’s group. We took off our shoes and stomped on the mud and clay to mix it. The women thought that I looked silly and they taught me the word for funny in Luganda. They laughed with me as I tried to speak to them in Luganda. They told me that they would build me a house so I could stay in Lugazi forever. They told me all I would have to do is learn to peal matoke (a really important skill for women here). They gave me a Buganda name, Nnaneojo. It means: small white bird that moves with cows.

Last week we made a disgusting discovery: As we were walking home one evening we noticed that all of the children had little white whistles. When we asked to see them they laughed at us and ran away. Lauren picked up one of the kids and realized that the small whistles were made from the tampon applicators that our volunteers had thrown away. That night in a team meeting, Heidi recounted the story, “We tried to convince the children to throw them away, but they just wouldn’t… that was when I realized there was not hope for Africa.”

Today, once I am finished posting this blog, I am going to lunch with a Peace Corp volunteer named Grant. He has been in Lugazi for one year. I ran into him a couple days ago and found out that he is working with micro-businesses. He actually introduced the idea of paper-bead necklaces to Faith and the PWD group which I am going to try to sell to you guys in the US. Increasingly, I have been interested in private-sector solutions to poverty. Before I came, I read two books by Muhammad Yunus who champions microfinance. Sadly, it seems that micro-loans in Uganda have been all but criminal – require large collateral, charging huge interest rates, and giving almost no grace period to pay loans back. I have heard no triumphs, only horror storied of mirco-finance here. I am anxious to talk to Grant about micro-loans and run over some ideas I had for the business training we are doing. It is going to be so helpful to the ideas of someone who has been here trying to do a similar thing.

A strong woman

Most of our projects were set this week and should start full force next week. It has been a really long process getting everything going, but that it how development work goes. We really wanted to give our volunteers the opportunity to start their own projects and be involved in every step of planning.
Thursday we met with a women’s group in a small neighborhood in Lugazi called, Nmango. We were brought to a small house near a secondary school where a small woman was weeding her garden. Even from many yards off, we could see the definition of her arms. Almost all of the Ugandan women we have met have been extremely strong but, Janet’s muscle tone is something exceptional even here. More unusual is the fact that she is not robust. She does not have the curvy waist and hips that Uganda women tote with pride. She would make a good model for a biology class, every bone visibly protruding and every muscle perfectly chiseled. When she turned to face us, I noticed cheek bones so high they seemed to put pressure on her eyes. As Janet introduced herself as the chairman of the women’s group and showed us her garden, house, and school, I couldn’t help but think about how strangely beautiful she was.
The other women slowly arrived and we sat together on grass mats that they had weaved. These women also make paper bead necklaces, and they taught me to make a bead. Seconds after convening the meeting, it began to ran, so we ran into the shelter of the school. Amber, Natalie, Heidi, and I introduced the different programs that we could offer to the women: Lorena stoves, Square Meter Gardening, English, Business skills, and Health/Nutrition. They were excited about all of the programs and pleaded with us to meet with them every week, instead of every other week which we had originally suggested. More than anything the women wanted to learn how to build Lorena Stoves.
Lorena Stoves are VERY low cost. All types of fuel are extremely scarce and expensive in Uganda, especially firewood. The Lorena Stove is highly efficient and uses just one-third of the amount of firewood than an open fire. Additionally, cooking over an open fire carries significant health risks to women and their young children. The smoke fills the small house and causes acute repertory infections, which are a major health problem here. The stove sends the smoke out of a chimney. We will start building a stove with the women next week. We will teach them how to make this first one and they will be able to replicate it in their own homes.
I walked home from the meeting with Teo, the Madame that introduced us to the women’s group, and I inquired about Janet. Janet was a school teacher, but had to quit teaching to farm and raise animals when she became a widow. Her husband died of HIV AIDS. Janet also has the virus, which has caused her to loose weight very rapidly. In the mist of the loss of her husband and the deterioration of her own body, Janet has become a leader among the women in her community. She encourages them to gain knowledge, work hard, and love their families. She radiates an energy out of her small frame that commands respect and adoration. The women look to her for strength. She is the strongest woman I have ever met.

21 in Africa

I had an absolutely AMAZING 21st birthday. After dinner the team blindfolded me and led me outside. They had decorated the back of the house with streamers and a poster. The family that lives in the back of the house made me potato chips and a cake. I was completely surprised. They had been planning the whole thing since the day before, and I had no idea. They covered me in confetti as I blew out my candles. I didn’t make a wish. I simply couldn’t think of anything more I could want at the moment.
Tori told us that when someone in her family has a birthday everyone goes around and says something they like about them. I sat there awkwardly as everyone said one positive thing about me. Although it was probably the most uncomfortable ten minutes of my life, it was really nice to hear. Later, I opened the presents that people had gotten me. Achalam (18) and Laola (12), the girls who live behind us, got me figurines. Edith (18), my friend who lives down the street, got me a brush and mirror set. These are honestly the nicest girls I have ever met. Edith comes over and steals my laundry to wash. When I try to pay her she laughs and refuses. Achalam teaches me how to cook chicken, peel matoke, cut fruit, wash the floor, ect. I constantly feel guilty because every time I try to return the favor they do something else even nicer for me.
After I opened presents, I asked Corbin (one of the volunteers) to sing me a Backstreet Boys song. Corbin is absolutely hilarious. He disappeared into the house and rehearsed lyrics. He emerged 15 minutes later and presented an almost-professional rendition of “Larger Than Life”. The performance merged into a dance party. Achalam requested Shakira and showed us how to dance. Even Christine and Irene (our friends that work at Hope Children’s Home and our cooks) danced with us.
All in all my birthday was fantastic. I wish I were a more emotional person so I could have cried to express my appreciation. Wonderful night. Beautiful people.
This weekend we rafted the Nile. One day, when I have time, I will try to articulate how beautiful it was. For now, it will suffice to say, that it was simply unbelievable. In between big rapids we would float down the river in absolute awe. Along side the river there were some villagers washing their clothes and bathing. As we approach one of the class five rapids, there was a tall, thin man standing on a rock exactly in the middle of the river. The man was completely naked and the rock couldn’t have been more than a meter in diameter. The water raged around him but he stood stolid, yet joyful on his rock.
We were on the river for nearly six hours. There were 12 rapids, five of which were class five rapids. I fell out twice in the beginning. As our team got more experience, we were able to avoid being thrown out or tipping over. The very last rapid of the day was a class five called “The Bad Place”. Our guide explained that this was the largest commercially run ‘hole’ in the world. Basically, it is a huge succession of rapids that turn back on each other like a washing machine, creating a whirlpool. He told us to hold on and paddle as hard as we could. Then he added: if the raft started to pull us under, let go, hold your breathe, and wait for your body to eventually float. Right as our raft was crowning the first rapid, all six of us in the boat release an introspective curse word followed by uncontrolled screams that were soon muffled by that roaring water. Before I could think, the raft was thrown upside down and I landed head first into the waves. I don’t know how long I was under for, but it was long enough for me to decide to count, reach 14, get bored, and decide I should find a way to surface. My head finally breached the air long enough to get a half-breathe and a mouth full of water. I was now being tossed in and out of the water. I was terrified to breathe because I couldn’t tell when I was free from when I was submerged. I honestly thought that I was going to die and I started to tell myself that at least I would have a cool story to tell in heaven. I am embarrassed that these would have been my last thoughts. I’ll have to work on that. Lol. When I finally reached the bank of the river I stood silently in shock until Corbin (who was also on my raft) walked up and shook me. We let off nervous laughs and hugged. A few moments later I realized that that was the most fun thing I have ever done. I can’t wait to go again!
Monday and Tuesday were very very busy. We are trying to get all of our projects set so I went to meeting after meeting with our project leads, trying to get things rolling. Rylee and I have been working with a woman named Faith who has put together a women’s group of mothers with children who have disabilities. There is a HUGE range of disability in the group (deafness, paraplegic, mental retardation, epilepsy, ect). Almost all of the women have been abandoned by their husbands, and many are unable to get jobs because they can not leave their child. There is a lot of stigmatization of people with disabilities and their families, and many of the women are afraid to take their children into public.
I have met with these women and had the chance to get to know their children. I already love them so much. The children are always very happy to see me and many of them are very bright. Tragically, these kids are not being stimulated or encouraged to learn.
In partnership with Faith HELP International is going to have weekly meetings with these women while some of our volunteers teach and play with the kids. We will be covering subjects including: goal setting, parent/child bonding, communication techniques, socialization, empowerment, and business skills. We will also be training teenaged girls in these subjects. This group of girls will be accompanying a HELP volunteer on weekly home visits. HELP will create a handbook to give these girls at the end of the summer and the girls will continue to conduct home visits after we have left.
Faith has taught the women how to make paper bead necklaces. They sell them to earn money for a community center where the children could go to support each other, be stimulated, get education, and received physical therapy. Faith has received two computers from some donors, but the children don’t have access to them, because there is no center. If anyone would like to purchase some of these necklaces, I could arrange their safe delivery. Let me know if you are interested and I will give you more details.
I will write about more of our projects in my next blog. In the meantime, check out the HELP Uganda blog and the blogs of my team members (you can find them on the HELP Uganda blog.

My first days in Uganda

I have now been in Uganda for twelve days and I can’t believe how fast it has gone. I arrived in Uganda with two other people, Corbin and Jackie (the other country director). We were picked up by the mayor of Lugazi and brought to his house in Mukono. We stayed their for four nights under the incredible hospitality of the family. They would cook breakfast and dinner for us every night and were great company and help as we tried to get to know Uganda.
We were taken all around Lugazi by the town council and it didn’t take us long to decide that Lugazi was the town we wanted to stay in. The people in Lugazi are incredibly friendly, and have such a great need. Many of them are very poor and struggling to find a way out of poverty in the mist of a volatile economy. We were introduced to various women’s groups, community leaders, and constituency groups. We told them our program and everyone expressed their appreciation that we have come to Lugazi. There are very few white people who have come to this village, and they have not received the aid that more popular, and more conveniently located regions have.
It has been a struggle to explain our purpose. When some Ugandans see white people they automatically think that they are going to have money to contribute. HELP International is run by college-aged students, and our resources are VERY limited. It has been hard for me to hear about the financial needs of the people (school fees, books, infrastructure ect.) here and know that I do not have the ability to give money. The basic principle of development is that you have to help people be self-sufficient by empowering them and giving them the tools to pull themselves out of poverty. This is easily said, but much harder when faced with real suffering.
After deciding on Lugazi we rented a beautiful house that shares its lot with a Arab family. They are probably the nicest people I have ever met. Their family has lived in Lugazi for 3 generations, and they have been a huge help in acquainting us with the area. The first week here was absolutely stressful as we prepared to get everything ready for our volunteers to come. Housing, food water, contacts, emergency medical care, ect all had to be sorted out. In addition, we had to get a project started for when they arrive and projects in the works that they could help develop once they have been here a few days.
I was so relieved when they finally came. They are an incredible group of people. I am so excited for the things we are going to be able to do and for the leadership capabilities that exist in our group. Two nights ago Jackie and I had an initiation. We started by making everyone close their eyes and take deep breathe, then we started humming. All of the volunteers were given a candle and as they walked out the front door Jackie and I simultaneously light their candle. After being seated they were greeted by out Ugandan friend, Edith. Edith instructed them to repeat a phrase and then blow out their candle. After we had done this she explained that their was one requirement before they could be consider part of the community: Kill Nkoko…… We brought out two chickens and together we slaughtered, plucked, cleaned, prepared, and ate the chickens. The locals who were watching were absolutely astounded that we had never done that before and thought it was hilarious when we screamed and winced.
Yesterday, I had prepared a project at Hope Children’s home. We made an adobe stove and a chicken coup. Hope is in an absolutely gorgeous place. It is up on a hill surrounded on one side by sugar cane and the other by jungle. The girls taught us how to carry burdens of water and clay on our heads. We made about four trips of water and ten of clay up a steep hill. It was really really hard. I don’t know how women here do that every day. We worked all day 7am to 6:30pm.
Friday night we went to a dance club here called African Paradise. It was incredible. I learned how to move my hips like a Buganda…..everyone was laughing at me.
Saturday we went to the Nile and took a boat tour. Uganda, the Pearl of Africa, really is absolutely gorgeous. We were taken to an island where we found a witch doctor living in a hut and wearing shorts made of coarsely wound twine.
Sunday we went to a Praise Session in Lugazi. It was a Born Again Christian congregation. We sang and danced. I was asked to stand up speak to the congregation. Overwhelmed by the request, I introduced our team and thanked the people sincerely for their hospitality and the chance to be their neighbors. The pastor told us that he felt as though we were a group of angles who were sent by God to help the people of Lugazi. I felt very uncomfortable with this description.
I have had the feeling ever since I have been here that people expect us to do a great work here. To hear it in such dramatic language really hit me. The problems that face the people here are far too vast for our small group to fix in four months. Can we make a difference? I think so. But, I do not see any conceivable way that we will be able fulfill the hopes of this community. This reality burdens my heart. I already feel that the most profound change will be the one in me. I am not an angle sent to the people of Lugazi. They are the angles. Their hope and faith in spite of everything astounds me.
On Monday, we went back to Seya and continued working on our construction projects there. It started to rain heavily and we had to pack into the children’s dormitories for shelter. I held Vanessa, the youngest child (only 7 months old) living at Hope. Vanessa lay in my arms docile and weak due to the malaria that has infected her small body. As I sat there rocking her to sleep, Kennedy told me the story of his life:
Kennedy is a staff member at Hope and the one who leads the singing at the praise sessions. He grew up in Northern Uganda with his parents and about 6 siblings. He was five years old when the Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA)first came to his village capturing his two brothers and forcing them to become child soldiers. Both boys refused and were tortured and killed on the spot. A few years later, the LRA returned and killed Kennedy’s uncle with an ax and a machete as an example to the villagers not to resist. About fifteen years ago, Kennedy and all of the other people in the village were moved to a refugee camp. Tens of thousands lived in Kennedy’s small camp. There was no land to cultivate, no building materials for shelter, no facilities for school, and extremely little food and sanitation. The refugees were completely reliant on the Ugandan government and aid organizations. They were forbidden to venture more that a half mile outside of the camp for fear of rebel attacks. Sickness and starvation claimed the lives of many. Family structure broke down. All lost power over their lives, and many lost hope. Kennedy could not receive an education because there was no school and no money to pay for school fees.
After many years, the government provided education for the children in the camp and Kennedy was able to complete a few years of schooling. His elder brother was elected as a Member of Parliament and was able to give Kennedy money for school fees. Tragically, Kennedy’s brother was murdered by the LRA on one of his trips back to the camp to visit his family. Once again, Kennedy had no opportunity for education. He grew interested in religion and began holding prayer sessions in the camp. That is how Bill Campbell found him. He invited Kennedy to come work at Hope and offered to pay for school. Kennedy has been living in Lugazi for just over a year and is working to earn enough money to build his mother a house so that she can move out of the camp. In spite of all of his adversity, he is the most joyful person I have ever met. When he leads his congregation in song, he jumps and dances filling the entire building with his energy. His entire body shouts gratitude and hope.

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