Tuesday, May 13, 2008

My first days in Uganda

I have now been in Uganda for twelve days and I can’t believe how fast it has gone. I arrived in Uganda with two other people, Corbin and Jackie (the other country director). We were picked up by the mayor of Lugazi and brought to his house in Mukono. We stayed their for four nights under the incredible hospitality of the family. They would cook breakfast and dinner for us every night and were great company and help as we tried to get to know Uganda.
We were taken all around Lugazi by the town council and it didn’t take us long to decide that Lugazi was the town we wanted to stay in. The people in Lugazi are incredibly friendly, and have such a great need. Many of them are very poor and struggling to find a way out of poverty in the mist of a volatile economy. We were introduced to various women’s groups, community leaders, and constituency groups. We told them our program and everyone expressed their appreciation that we have come to Lugazi. There are very few white people who have come to this village, and they have not received the aid that more popular, and more conveniently located regions have.
It has been a struggle to explain our purpose. When some Ugandans see white people they automatically think that they are going to have money to contribute. HELP International is run by college-aged students, and our resources are VERY limited. It has been hard for me to hear about the financial needs of the people (school fees, books, infrastructure ect.) here and know that I do not have the ability to give money. The basic principle of development is that you have to help people be self-sufficient by empowering them and giving them the tools to pull themselves out of poverty. This is easily said, but much harder when faced with real suffering.
After deciding on Lugazi we rented a beautiful house that shares its lot with a Arab family. They are probably the nicest people I have ever met. Their family has lived in Lugazi for 3 generations, and they have been a huge help in acquainting us with the area. The first week here was absolutely stressful as we prepared to get everything ready for our volunteers to come. Housing, food water, contacts, emergency medical care, ect all had to be sorted out. In addition, we had to get a project started for when they arrive and projects in the works that they could help develop once they have been here a few days.
I was so relieved when they finally came. They are an incredible group of people. I am so excited for the things we are going to be able to do and for the leadership capabilities that exist in our group. Two nights ago Jackie and I had an initiation. We started by making everyone close their eyes and take deep breathe, then we started humming. All of the volunteers were given a candle and as they walked out the front door Jackie and I simultaneously light their candle. After being seated they were greeted by out Ugandan friend, Edith. Edith instructed them to repeat a phrase and then blow out their candle. After we had done this she explained that their was one requirement before they could be consider part of the community: Kill Nkoko…… We brought out two chickens and together we slaughtered, plucked, cleaned, prepared, and ate the chickens. The locals who were watching were absolutely astounded that we had never done that before and thought it was hilarious when we screamed and winced.
Yesterday, I had prepared a project at Hope Children’s home. We made an adobe stove and a chicken coup. Hope is in an absolutely gorgeous place. It is up on a hill surrounded on one side by sugar cane and the other by jungle. The girls taught us how to carry burdens of water and clay on our heads. We made about four trips of water and ten of clay up a steep hill. It was really really hard. I don’t know how women here do that every day. We worked all day 7am to 6:30pm.
Friday night we went to a dance club here called African Paradise. It was incredible. I learned how to move my hips like a Buganda…..everyone was laughing at me.
Saturday we went to the Nile and took a boat tour. Uganda, the Pearl of Africa, really is absolutely gorgeous. We were taken to an island where we found a witch doctor living in a hut and wearing shorts made of coarsely wound twine.
Sunday we went to a Praise Session in Lugazi. It was a Born Again Christian congregation. We sang and danced. I was asked to stand up speak to the congregation. Overwhelmed by the request, I introduced our team and thanked the people sincerely for their hospitality and the chance to be their neighbors. The pastor told us that he felt as though we were a group of angles who were sent by God to help the people of Lugazi. I felt very uncomfortable with this description.
I have had the feeling ever since I have been here that people expect us to do a great work here. To hear it in such dramatic language really hit me. The problems that face the people here are far too vast for our small group to fix in four months. Can we make a difference? I think so. But, I do not see any conceivable way that we will be able fulfill the hopes of this community. This reality burdens my heart. I already feel that the most profound change will be the one in me. I am not an angle sent to the people of Lugazi. They are the angles. Their hope and faith in spite of everything astounds me.
On Monday, we went back to Seya and continued working on our construction projects there. It started to rain heavily and we had to pack into the children’s dormitories for shelter. I held Vanessa, the youngest child (only 7 months old) living at Hope. Vanessa lay in my arms docile and weak due to the malaria that has infected her small body. As I sat there rocking her to sleep, Kennedy told me the story of his life:
Kennedy is a staff member at Hope and the one who leads the singing at the praise sessions. He grew up in Northern Uganda with his parents and about 6 siblings. He was five years old when the Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA)first came to his village capturing his two brothers and forcing them to become child soldiers. Both boys refused and were tortured and killed on the spot. A few years later, the LRA returned and killed Kennedy’s uncle with an ax and a machete as an example to the villagers not to resist. About fifteen years ago, Kennedy and all of the other people in the village were moved to a refugee camp. Tens of thousands lived in Kennedy’s small camp. There was no land to cultivate, no building materials for shelter, no facilities for school, and extremely little food and sanitation. The refugees were completely reliant on the Ugandan government and aid organizations. They were forbidden to venture more that a half mile outside of the camp for fear of rebel attacks. Sickness and starvation claimed the lives of many. Family structure broke down. All lost power over their lives, and many lost hope. Kennedy could not receive an education because there was no school and no money to pay for school fees.
After many years, the government provided education for the children in the camp and Kennedy was able to complete a few years of schooling. His elder brother was elected as a Member of Parliament and was able to give Kennedy money for school fees. Tragically, Kennedy’s brother was murdered by the LRA on one of his trips back to the camp to visit his family. Once again, Kennedy had no opportunity for education. He grew interested in religion and began holding prayer sessions in the camp. That is how Bill Campbell found him. He invited Kennedy to come work at Hope and offered to pay for school. Kennedy has been living in Lugazi for just over a year and is working to earn enough money to build his mother a house so that she can move out of the camp. In spite of all of his adversity, he is the most joyful person I have ever met. When he leads his congregation in song, he jumps and dances filling the entire building with his energy. His entire body shouts gratitude and hope.

3 comments:

CeCe said...

Really enjoyed reading about your experiences, Ashley. It reminded me of being young again when I was in Africa. I am excited for you that you are the one that feels blessed by this experience. Most of life's experiences are blessings for all involved-it is just a matter of what each involved is able to recognize. Blessings, CeCe

Anonymous said...

Keep the blogs coming Ash!! Everyone LOVES to read them! I'm SO very proud of you and know you will make a BIG difference even if you think its "small". You have something very special to share with the world and I'm so glad they are getting to see it!

Keep up the good work!!!

LOVE YOU LOTS!! xoxoxoxo

Anonymous said...

Oh man I am crying! I wish I could be there with you it sounds absolutely amazing! Kennedy's story is so heartbreaking but I am glad to hear things are becoming better for him. It's insane that you are actually meeting people that have been affected by the LRA, I can't even imagine. Keep the blogs coming and I'll call you again in a few days!!

colby