Bishop David and his wife, Flo, have been unbelievably helpful in getting us in contact with village elders. It is very rude to simply enter a village uninvited and all work must be done through headmen. We must first meet with the headmen and ask their permission.
This is done through a short introduction ceremony where we present what is called a sevusevu. I had read about this in one of my travel books, but had no idea how it played out in reality, and that it is taken very seriously.
Tuesday we had our first such meeting with Vailuakulia Village. David, my co-director and I met with Rusila early in the morning and bought special kava that is still in the root form (before it is ground) and get it festively wrapped in brown paper and raffia-like string. We then took a taxi that again dropped us in the middle of sugar cane fields. After a few minutes we reached the village and sat in Rusila’s Auntie’s house where we were to met by the spokesperson and gave him the kava. Once the headmen were ready, the spokesman led us to where they were seated on a grass mat. On the walk over Rusila explained that placement on the mat is very important. Those with most authority sit at the top of the mat and those with less authority and women sit further back. However, it can be tricky to know which is the top. Luckily, one of the men pointed to where we should go. We take off our shoes, and sat crossed legged facing the top of the mat.
The spokesman held out the sevusevu, placed it in front of him, and announced something in Fijian. The headmen chanted something then clapped, which surprised me so much I had to repress a sudden grasp. The sevusevu was then passed to another man that made a different, longer proclamation, followed by more chanting and clapping. The spokesman looked at David and asked him to introduce us. He talked about HELP and the type of projects that we could work on and asked them to explain the needs that exist in their village. The men began asking questions about the business training and small farming. When I tried to answer, the men looked at David and there was an awkward pause. So, David tried calling on me to answer questions. I would give an explanation; the response would then be directed to David, who would either answer or refer to me again. Eventually, one of the women spoke up to ask David questions about 1st aid and English literacy. Once the women began talking, I was more free to answer questions and add opinions. However, I quickly noticed that any sort of assertive tendencies from me were not appreciate and responded to with silence. I tried to lean away from by proclivity to be dominant and speak only when I thought the conversation needed to be steered in one direction or another.
Tuesday night we met with Nabuna Village which we were told was a bit more closed and traditional that Vailuakulia. This time we were accompanied by Flo, Rusila, Tui, Vika, and a few others. Flo sat next to me as we waited to be led to were the headman sat and explained that the village might not accept us. She explained that they are worried that we are a church group that would interfere with the work that the Salvation Army might do in their Nabuna. We had to wait much longer than in Vailuakulia. The long build-up and the fact it was dark, gave the walk to the headmen an almost eerie feel. As we approached the mat, we didn’t know where the top was and there was an awkward break. David was pushed to the top of the mat and I followed Flo to sit behind with the women. There was brief whispering and I was directed to move in front just below David. It is rude to stand completely upright and walk on the mat and even more rude to cross between people. So I had to crouch, walk on the perimeter on the mat and say “Tulo” (excuse me) for each person I passed. I felt ridiculous.
Rusila was asked to come sit between David and so she could translate for him. She giggled quietly and whispered to me that she felt very silly sitting at the top of the mat. The same sevusevu introduction unfolded and David began speaking. After a brief explanation, he waited for response. Being used to American flow of conversation, he began to feel uncomfortable after 30 seconds of silence and begin talking again, then asking for feedback. This cycle happened a couple times until I touched him on the knee and whispered that he should be patient and let the silence settle for a bit. After a moment one of the headmen nodded “vinaka” and small groups broke out into whispers. Eventually, the whispering developed into questions, and the discussion evolved naturally from there. David and I started to develop a better pattern of presenting. I would let all questions go to him first, instead of trying to answer awkwardly. If David wanting me to answer or he could detect I had something to say, he would ask me to explain. I tried to do so humbly, looking at David periodically to indicate I wasn’t taking his thunder. Often I would simply whisper things for David to repeat to the whole group.
The first questions came from the men. They were skeptical about the business training and explained that there has already been a group teaching business training in the village, and what they needed now were loans to start small businesses. The conversation was leaning towards the men deciding they might not need us, when one of the women spoke up. She got permission to speak then meekly asked about the stoves we could teach build and all the women reacted excitedly as I explained the concept. The direction quickly shifted as the women began to explain why they needed stoves with chimneys. The men seemed to nod it capitulation, and it was decided that we would start next week.
As we left, I asked Tui when and how I should speak. He smiled kindly then looked to David and said, “Ashley should feel free.”
As a liberal, independent, American women- and a particularly stubborn, outspoken one at that- I have to admit that this patriarchal society is a bit hard for me to take. However, in spite their submission in public gatherings, the women here seem to be an empowered, respected part of society. In fact, it is the women here who move things forward. I am trying to study them and discover their subtle way of making things happen. I am thinking that there might be strength to silence. As I have been focusing on what is being heard, rather than what is being said, I have been better able to gage the reaction of participants, and subtly steer the conversation to fit the group.
This is done through a short introduction ceremony where we present what is called a sevusevu. I had read about this in one of my travel books, but had no idea how it played out in reality, and that it is taken very seriously.
Tuesday we had our first such meeting with Vailuakulia Village. David, my co-director and I met with Rusila early in the morning and bought special kava that is still in the root form (before it is ground) and get it festively wrapped in brown paper and raffia-like string. We then took a taxi that again dropped us in the middle of sugar cane fields. After a few minutes we reached the village and sat in Rusila’s Auntie’s house where we were to met by the spokesperson and gave him the kava. Once the headmen were ready, the spokesman led us to where they were seated on a grass mat. On the walk over Rusila explained that placement on the mat is very important. Those with most authority sit at the top of the mat and those with less authority and women sit further back. However, it can be tricky to know which is the top. Luckily, one of the men pointed to where we should go. We take off our shoes, and sat crossed legged facing the top of the mat.
The spokesman held out the sevusevu, placed it in front of him, and announced something in Fijian. The headmen chanted something then clapped, which surprised me so much I had to repress a sudden grasp. The sevusevu was then passed to another man that made a different, longer proclamation, followed by more chanting and clapping. The spokesman looked at David and asked him to introduce us. He talked about HELP and the type of projects that we could work on and asked them to explain the needs that exist in their village. The men began asking questions about the business training and small farming. When I tried to answer, the men looked at David and there was an awkward pause. So, David tried calling on me to answer questions. I would give an explanation; the response would then be directed to David, who would either answer or refer to me again. Eventually, one of the women spoke up to ask David questions about 1st aid and English literacy. Once the women began talking, I was more free to answer questions and add opinions. However, I quickly noticed that any sort of assertive tendencies from me were not appreciate and responded to with silence. I tried to lean away from by proclivity to be dominant and speak only when I thought the conversation needed to be steered in one direction or another.
Tuesday night we met with Nabuna Village which we were told was a bit more closed and traditional that Vailuakulia. This time we were accompanied by Flo, Rusila, Tui, Vika, and a few others. Flo sat next to me as we waited to be led to were the headman sat and explained that the village might not accept us. She explained that they are worried that we are a church group that would interfere with the work that the Salvation Army might do in their Nabuna. We had to wait much longer than in Vailuakulia. The long build-up and the fact it was dark, gave the walk to the headmen an almost eerie feel. As we approached the mat, we didn’t know where the top was and there was an awkward break. David was pushed to the top of the mat and I followed Flo to sit behind with the women. There was brief whispering and I was directed to move in front just below David. It is rude to stand completely upright and walk on the mat and even more rude to cross between people. So I had to crouch, walk on the perimeter on the mat and say “Tulo” (excuse me) for each person I passed. I felt ridiculous.
Rusila was asked to come sit between David and so she could translate for him. She giggled quietly and whispered to me that she felt very silly sitting at the top of the mat. The same sevusevu introduction unfolded and David began speaking. After a brief explanation, he waited for response. Being used to American flow of conversation, he began to feel uncomfortable after 30 seconds of silence and begin talking again, then asking for feedback. This cycle happened a couple times until I touched him on the knee and whispered that he should be patient and let the silence settle for a bit. After a moment one of the headmen nodded “vinaka” and small groups broke out into whispers. Eventually, the whispering developed into questions, and the discussion evolved naturally from there. David and I started to develop a better pattern of presenting. I would let all questions go to him first, instead of trying to answer awkwardly. If David wanting me to answer or he could detect I had something to say, he would ask me to explain. I tried to do so humbly, looking at David periodically to indicate I wasn’t taking his thunder. Often I would simply whisper things for David to repeat to the whole group.
The first questions came from the men. They were skeptical about the business training and explained that there has already been a group teaching business training in the village, and what they needed now were loans to start small businesses. The conversation was leaning towards the men deciding they might not need us, when one of the women spoke up. She got permission to speak then meekly asked about the stoves we could teach build and all the women reacted excitedly as I explained the concept. The direction quickly shifted as the women began to explain why they needed stoves with chimneys. The men seemed to nod it capitulation, and it was decided that we would start next week.
As we left, I asked Tui when and how I should speak. He smiled kindly then looked to David and said, “Ashley should feel free.”
As a liberal, independent, American women- and a particularly stubborn, outspoken one at that- I have to admit that this patriarchal society is a bit hard for me to take. However, in spite their submission in public gatherings, the women here seem to be an empowered, respected part of society. In fact, it is the women here who move things forward. I am trying to study them and discover their subtle way of making things happen. I am thinking that there might be strength to silence. As I have been focusing on what is being heard, rather than what is being said, I have been better able to gage the reaction of participants, and subtly steer the conversation to fit the group.
1 comment:
Hi Ashley! I'm glad to be in touch with you through your blogs. I really have appreciated reading them, kind of from the present bzck to your first meetings with some villages. I appreciated your observations about the power of silence and the indirect way that the women could make things happen, working with the men and what is culturally appropriate.
I'm so glad you are making regular blog entries!
I love reading them.
Aunt Cynthia
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